KITS COTY MORRIS

Cambrai, France, May 5-7, 2000

"Cambrai embraces an English tradition"
-the diary of an English gentleman (Squire) on tour with a Morris dancing side

"Parish notices - anybody interested / available for a weekend in France, 5-7 May 2000?" Strangely enough, a dozen or so of the assembled throng put their hand up. Details were fairly scant at this stage but the event was to do with the "twinning associations of Gravesham and Cambrai". Arrangements for the weekend were fairly difficult to establish, but you have to remember we are dealing with France and their known "laid back" approach - sometimes think I must have some French blood in me although maybe not if you have witnessed my pathetic communication skills.

It was eventually established that we were limited to a party of 12, a minibus and driver to be provided together with accommodation etc. with host families. Dancing was required in return on Friday evening if we were able to travel early enough and definitely on the Saturday night. Travel arrangements were finalised, departing Maidstone West station at 13.15 on Friday for le Shuttle and beyond. With less than a week to go the Friday evening performance was cancelled! Was the accommodation still available? Did they want us to travel on Saturday? - nobody seemed to know. The 12 intrepid KCM representatives had all made arrangements for a Friday departure, so regalia on, "lets go"!

We met up as planned with Reg our minibus driver, who was made an honourary KCM member for the weekend and the luggage was quickly loaded and seats onboard claimed, somewhat cramped as usual but what the hell. Luggage was equally quickly unloaded with the announcement that we were to dance prior to departure - to an appreciative drunk outside the taxi office.

KCM dancing before departure, with Reg, our driver for the weekend, looking on

Cruising along the M20 we arrive at a deserted, rather eerie tunnel terminal, something to do with no duty free apparently, and following the mandatory comfort break and customs search we're heading high speed to France. KCM took the opportunity to dance and entertain a family birthday outing on le Shuttle, the Squire even took part in the dancing! Thus joining the elite band of under-channel Morris dancers.

Adrian had very kindly provided some liquid refreshment for the outward journey, that he had brought back from France on an earlier trip, and we all helped return the liquid our own various ways. With supplies running low a supermarket was an essential first stop. Electing Adrian as treasurer and the fact he demonstrated super ability with the lingo we replenished stocks ready for the couple of hour drive to Cambrai, although we probably had sufficient provision to reach the foot of Italy. We met up with Barry Rowbotham, Honourary Secretary of Gravesham Town Twinning Association at the first auto toll as previously arranged and then headed on.

Cambrai Town Hall

At Cambrai we were greeted by our host families outside of the rather imposing Town Hall in the town square, which also had a wealth of street cafes just crying out for some culture and tradition from Blighty, and not the usual football hooligans. Legs cramped from the travel and brains partially numbed by alcohol we stumbled into the café scene to provide that culture and tradition. I'm not totally sure the locals knew quite what to make of this strange English custom, but we were well received at our two selected dance stands, and even attracted the attentions of the local Cambrai drunk, certain kind of déjà vu here.

Our hosts seemed anxious to whisk us away for some real French hospitality and we were soon paired up and introduced to host families for the weekend, so far so good, all except Peter and myself that is, who at this point seemed to be homeless due to some unforeseen problem at our allotted residence - or perhaps they had got news of Peter's exploits in Holland! Undaunted we offered to find accommodation in the town and were more than happy to find suitable and befitting entertainment for the evening. None of this. We were caringly taken to the local Hébergement, along with Reg the driver and were eventually billeted in an apartment, well two rooms, that the entire Side could easily have camped in, how cosy. This establishment was where a coach load of young Hungarian dancers were staying, also part of the twinning celebrations. How pleasant. From here we were then taken for refreshments at Claudine's house, only to be reunited with Crittenden and Waters. Several drinks and eats later it was back in the cars heading for Marie-Claude's house, in a neighbouring village where she was the Mayor for some serious eating and drinking at that wonderfully relaxed French pace. Garlic was now infiltrating the digestive system - big time. How very civilised. Despite only limited communication skills, although the group was fortunate to have in its midst AW "the interpreter", a very social evening ensued, culminating in the inevitable musical interlude. CC had smuggled a sheep into France in the form of Shorn, who then provided percussion instruments galore for our hosts to enthusiastically join in the musical extravaganza. Finally reaching a state of total relaxation PMac, PM and Reg were returned to the Hébergement for some well earned rest, but not before liberating just a couple more beers from the minibus to guarantee a good night's sleep - well what was left of it. The three S's, room tidied, clothes folded etc. and breakfast completed for a 10.00am start to some sightseeing. In the company of CC, AW and Marie-Claude the decision had been taken the previous evening to make a visit to the Canadian War Memorial at Vimy Ridge.

First stop however was at a war cemetery in Cambrai, there we viewed in relative silence the row upon row of graves. The British sector was separated by a low hedgerow and was very noticeably lovingly cared for. Stopping to read names, ages, regiments made you really wonder as to the enormity of the tragedy we were standing amidst, and this was only a tiny sample. The party, visibly moved, continued to Vimy Ridge, passing several more cemeteries that only emphasised the horror of those times. Arriving at Vimy Ridge in brilliant sunshine etc one was virtually blinded by the refection from this extraordinary memorial, where you naturally found yourself picking out what seemed very familiar names amongst the 11,285 so lovingly carved into the white limestone, very sobering. Unashamedly with tears in eyes it was back on the minibus and the return to Marie-Claude's house where drinks and food, including a top up to the garlic level, were in abundance once again.

The Side had on Friday night managed to convince our hosts that we would like to meet up for dancing and socialising during Saturday afternoon and 3.00pm had been generally agreed, but being France using timing similar to Morris mean time that turned out to be quite flexible.

When our party finally arrived at the "covered market", to be the scene of the main evening festivities, we met up with the majority of the Side. On viewing the arena for the performance I must confess I was taken aback by the size of the venue. Just what were they expecting? Preparations for the evening were under way but we did not seem to be able to establish the format of the evening or who was in charge, but then nobody seemed too concerned. Eventually agreeing to return at 7.30pm we ventured into the town square to share some of our dancing, music and money.

KCM doing what we do best...

A suitable café was selected and English culture and tradition was extended to an intrigued populace in Cambrai. AW attracted the attention of a small boy who proceeded to attack him with a light sabre.

Entente cordiale?

Well, it was somewhat self inflicted as AW had encouraged Pierre Junior to unwrap said sabre: and then there was Iggy. To be honest, people in Maidstone, where he appears on the coat of arms, don't understand the significance, so what chance on foreign soil!!!!! But nevertheless he performed to the crowd in true Iggy style.

...or perhaps THIS is what we do best!

Having thankfully been reunited with Brenda and Jan who we had almost given up as lost, it was a brief thunderstorm that ensured arrival absolutely on time for the evening performance. Worth remembering for the future - arrange thunderstorm.

7.30pm and it was still chaos in the hall. People were expected to start arriving at 8.00pm and KCM were asked to open the proceedings, but only if sufficient people had turned up by then, they still didn't seem to know what was going to happen. In the background but not able to be ignored the band was tuning up and carrying out their sound check. How reassuring to know feedback is a universal language. The Hungarian dancers were also to be incorporated in the evening programme, but at this late stage were not represented, as they were off rehearsing. Now that's a novelty, although it has to be said we had organised a dance schedule and names of dancers for our performance, which we basically ignored on the night. By 8.40 we were set to go. People filed into the hall, I suddenly remembered the nerves, oh yes, that lonely walk of the musician to centre stage, thankfully reinforcements arrive in the form of friendly faces of dancers, then the Fool with an introduction for the Side in French. Now that takes courage in my estimation. The first notes drift into the space of the hall and the dancing begins. Lines good, figures good, people enjoying themselves the "atmosphere of the occasion" was established. Enter Iggy, much hilarity, still no understanding by the crowds of the significance but great fun all the same. 35 minutes later KCM's entertainment was complete, including a musical interlude with massed percussion. KCM certainly entertained superbly, displaying enthusiasm, great style and most of all sheer enjoyment, by the whole Side. Extremely well received it was now time to enjoy the rest of the evening. The band takeover the running, still experiencing feedback, but loud and enthusiastic. It turned out to be a French barn dance, little bit of a problem understanding the instruction, but make it up as you go seemed to be the order of the day. Even recognised some of the tunes!

KCM were then asked to do a second stint later in the evening after the Hungarians. So they must have enjoyed the opening slot.

Enter the Hungarian dance troupe, straight from rehearsals. They performed three well choreographed folk dances, very slick and professional, but then they were from a dance school. Sadly, as soon as their performance was over they were all whisked away back to the hostel, seemed a real shame. The band returned, more dancing, even line dancing - oh no. Meanwhile KCM plotted their second programme of the evening, not wishing to over-stay the welcome we decided three dances, so Constant Billy, Saturday Night and Bonny Green involving certainly our host families and as many as will - well done Jan for the sense of performance. Bonny Green was well subscribed, loads of volunteers and total chaos just as usual. Performance well received, so well done once again. The band returned yet again, the evening was building up for a late finish, as this seemed very flexible as well.

However the evening was brought to a premature and very sad conclusion when Francine, one of the twinning association members, suffered a heart attack and very sadly died despite the attention of the French paramedics. A very stunned crowd of people departed, the fun of the night having been overshadowed by this tragic incident. Our host families were all visibly shocked, having lost one of their friends and their intentions and thoughts for entertaining us on the Sunday morning did not seem at all appropriate. They all needed time and space to grieve. KCM agreed to meet in the town square on Sunday at midday, for dancing and refreshments before departing for le Shuttle.

Meeting in the square everyone was feeling rather subdued, gifts were given to our hosts in appreciation of the generous hospitality extended to us and we then selected another café to again pass on our tradition. More dancing and drinking ensued and arrangements courtesy of AW organised for lunch, at yet another nearby café. There were so many possible venues that we could have spent the entire weekend inflicting the Morris on the unsuspecting Cambrai café scene not having to return to a single one to give a second performance. Celebration was also in order to mark two birthdays amongst the party, congratulation to Nicky and Ron (aka Iggy).

Lunch was extremely fine, plenty of good food, drink, laughter with birthday cake supplied into the bargain. There is however one feature of French cuisine we had been exposed to this weekend - garlic, (plant with bulbous strong-smelling root used in cookery) in plentiful quantity, this was to prove very interesting on the return journey home and in the confines of the minibus. Before bidding au revoir to Cambrai, the Side was called to order for a final toast "to a most enjoyable weekend tour".

Au revoir Cambrai!

Spiced Bacardi seemed quite appropriate after May Day. The journey back to le Shuttle was a most pleasant haze of good memories, alcohol and garlic. Wearily we unloaded the luggage from the minibus at Maidstone West station, bid farewell to Reg and returned home to face the reality of work the following day. It didn't seem possible it had only been some 55 hours earlier we had danced here to mark the start of the weekend away.

Paul Malyon, Squire, May 2000

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